What's on

Post Title

Tue, 28 Apr 2020 18:12:31 GMT

Dog Sports; CaniCross

Cani-cross is the sport of cross-country running while hitched to a dog. It is popular in Europe. It is related to the winter dog-powered sport of skijoring and bikejoring, wherein a skier or cyclist is hitched to one to three dogs.

The first World Championships were arranged in 2002 in Ravenna, Italy.

Equipment needed is basically the same as in skiing with dogs: running harness, waist belt and a flexible line. In competitions there are more detailed requirements to the clips, and the length of the line.

Canicross is growing throughout North America with many dryland events for competitive teams. Canicross is also becoming a very popular recreational activity for people who simply want to walk, jog, hike or stroll hands free with their dog or multiple dogs without holding a leash.

Joggers can run without compromising their stride while holding leashes while using canicross gear which includes a belt, bungee line and harness for the dog to run in front and pull.

source:

/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canicross/

The fireworks (again)

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Thu, 01 Nov 2018 17:52:34 GMT

The best and the worst time of year

For some of us, the beginning of the festive season is a start-up button for worry and panic. Not because some of us don't like Halloween or Christmas, but because this season is plagued with overwhelming amounts of unexpected noise and strong lights from a bright and happy display of fireworks. I'm very lucky not to be one of those people. However roughly 45% of the canine population in the UK, is absolutely petrified of the gorgeous blasts of light, that so many of us, absolutely adore. The reactions some pets have to fireworks can be heartbreaking to witness, and many pet owners become anxious about what to do.

But what does a bad reaction look like?
For dogs, fireworks present a sudden and abnormal threat, launching them into a state of flight mode which causes them to try and flee the home, or into a state of complete withdrawal and shut down. Some dogs become so anxious they will hide, shaking helplessly, making it difficult to reach if their situation gets worse - like having a fit.
It doesn't take long to find a river of videos of dog's reactions to fireworks on Youtube to understand how scary these displays can be for both us and our dogs, and although some people can find said reactions funny, it is really an ignorant judgement of the situation. Some people even unknowingly subject their pets to fireworks without realising the impact they can have.

So what can we do?
Start by introducing products that release appeasing pheromones - at least one month prior to the beginning of the festive season, and keep it up. These products have proven to help your dog deal with scary situations and have an array of other uses.
On a firework night, keep your windows and blinds shut, have some music play and give your dog something interesting to interact with, such as a filled kong or puzzle toy.
Now, regardless of your work to make life for your dog easier, some dogs will still be afraid. If the situation rises, simply reassure him and if he tries to hide, let him, always trying to be reassuring. Try not to pull your dog out of the hiding place, because it will make things worse.

If you have a new dog or puppy, don't wait to find out if he or she is afraid of fireworks. You can start getting your dog used to fireworks by playing firework noises in a very low volume in your home, as your dog is listening to music and is busy with his toy. Then, slowly raise the volume of the bangs in a controlled and safe manner, always checking for your dog's reaction to said sound. This should be done in a progressive way for a period of a few weeks. Don't rush it, as it can suddenly become overwhelming too quickly.

In the long term, if your dog is particularly afraid of fireworks to an extent that you deem life threatening or too difficult to deal with, seek the help of Professional Animal Behaviourists - such as ourselves - that will use positive reinforcement only. You can't force fear out of someone, so you can't hope to force fear out of a dog either - it will just make it worse.

Happy training!

Feeding time

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Thu, 11 Oct 2018 15:50:34 GMT

The food bowl or not the food bowl, tis the question

The feeding time harnesses a power most people ignore, mostly because they're unaware of it's potential. But making sure you're using your dog's feeding time as working time, is immensely easy, useful and provides great long-term effects. And that's why I don't feed my dog off a normal food bowl.
So let's look at the most common way people feed their dogs!

'Round the clock feeding
This is the worst type of feeding as it usually leads to a fat and lazy animal that is impossible to train due to lack of interest in food. And why would he? His food is always there waiting for him, harvesting bacteria and slowly decomposing. So why on earth should he sit when you ask, or come when you call, if he can just take him self to the bowl to eat... anytime.

Feeding times off a food bowl at meal times
Feeding off of a normal food bowl, gives the dog the chance to eat in 5 seconds - some dogs taking less time - in an inhaling fashion that can lead to bloat and blockage of the airways, amongst other things. It also provides the dog with no mental stimulation and makes the food, whichever food it is, a boring and ordinary supply of energy that has no hope of becoming more.

Feeding times off a feeding device/toy/activity
Using a dog's feeding times to your advantage is a remarkable idea, keeps the dog mentally active, tiring him or her out, gives the food value, as the animal has to work for it, and it's a doggy activity that doesn't have to involve you, besides the short lived preparation time. But what does that look like?
I ditched the food bowl for a selection of things to make my dog work for his food and keep him busy.
Option 1 is a slow feeder, where I put the food, much like a normal food bowl. This food bowl however has lots twirls, ups and downs, and small barriers to keep the food safe from inhalation, so the dog has to actually use his brain to find out how to access it.
Option 2 is a treat ball or kong wobbler. This is a hollow toy with a whole or removable part, through which you place your dog's food. The animal has to make the ball roll, or the wobbler wobble, in order to access the few - if any - bits of food that come out. This generally takes longer that the slow feeder but it doesn't work with wet food.
Option 3 is scatter on a snuffle mat, which is a small mat full of long fleece strands in which the food gets lost, giving the dog a great time, trying to find it to eat it. This helps with problem solving and develop the use of the nose.
Option 4 is a scatter feed (often in the garden), which means the animal has to physically search for every individual bit of food between your weeds/grass/rocks/etc.
Any of those, ups my dog's feeding time up to 8 minutes, giving me a nice dog free breakfast and dinner. He gets to exercise his noggin and learn about problem solving, spatial awareness and how to use his body - thrashing the kong or ball, using paw or tongue for slow feeder, or using the nose to slowly finding every bit of food.

Other tips!
If you don't have any of these, simply putting a tennis ball inside the dog's normal food bowl also helps, as he has to work his way around the ball to access the food.
Give you dog a raw cracked and leaking egg still in the shell (also known as calcium) on top of his dinner - slow feeder only.
Give your dog a whole carrot or broccoli stork, keeps him busy for ages.

Why having food on you 24/7

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Fri, 20 Jul 2018 16:30:34 GMT

"Please keep control of your dog at all times" said the sign at the gate

So your dog does a beautiful recall. He was about to chase after another dog and once you called, he came running straight back without a second thought. He gets to you and nothing... Maybe a pat on the head and a cheer as you assume your dog speaks English and understands the value of verbal praise.

Next day, same scenario but different outcome. Your dog stopped once you called him, looked at you, and then decided to go after the other dog any way. You stood there helpless, calling him again and again. Your frustration starting to turn into anger and you just ask yourself why, maybe thinking "he is doing this on purpose to annoy me".

Did that scenario feel familiar?
What's wrong with that picture is that the dog wasn't told in a clear and obvious way that the first recall - the beautiful one - had been a great one, aka the behaviour wasn't reinforced. Imagine that for the dog, this scale appears in his minds eye depicting two very different weights. On one side you, and on the other side, an animal of the same species. Based on previous experience, which one do you think your dog is more keen to run up to? His friend or you?
Dogs only care about a few things in their naive and lovely heads. One of those is if things are worth their while. So if you don't tell your dog via a reinforcer, how do you expect him to know that he is to try that again? It's like you doing an amazing job at work and receiving the same feedback as when you do a very poor one. Wouldn't you then relax a bit and just do less? After all, is it worth it? So be more attentive to your dog. Take rewards with you and let your dog know, "you did a brilliant job dog, here is your pay cheque".

Check our s tore for a practical treat bag .

Happy training!

I said SIT!

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Fri, 11 May 2018 16:35:37 GMT

I command you, you petty creature

Do you find yourself saying "my dog knows how to do this at home" when explaining yourself as to why your dog won't sit/lie down/roll over or come when out and about?
There may be a few reasons for that... so ask yourself some questions.

How interested is my dog to perform certain behaviours in certain situations?
How am I contributing for the behaviour to occur?
Is this an absolute necessity?

Several factors come into play when in different scenarios, and when we ask ourselves these questions, the fourth question become - Am I being fair here?
We can look at a lot of things, but there's one that stands out.

It's important to understand that when you're at home with your dog, there are probably much fewer distractions than when out, and you're probably rewarding the behaviour you've requested by using food, play or something your dog finds rewarding.
But suddenly you're out with your dog and there are so many interesting things in the world, like a dog that wee'd over by that bush, or the smell of something that died around the corner last month, or a sticky candy wrap begging your dog to be licked, etc.

So the norm is broken, the picture for your dog doesn't look the same, and the question in your dog's head starts to form - 'Why should I do what you say?'. In the end of the day, it's a free country and unless you're the King/Queen of the Universe, no one or nothing shall ever do something just because you say so. Even if you feed them and walk them and provide a safe place to live.

Perspective now.
When you're at work and your boss asks you to do something, will you do it just because he says so? And if you do, are you doing it for free? Isn't there an end goal in the back of your head?
If you are used to work in an office, would you have the same performance as when working from home? And when being used to working from home, would you have the same performance as when working from an office, a park, a shopping mall or a friend's house?

The same works for our dogs - except that they can't think ahead or think back like we do. For dogs, they need the payment right after the bill. Dogs are also creatures of habit. If you dog isn't used to practising and performing said requests at these exciting and random locations, with added varying levels of distraction, is it fair to expect them to perform the same way they would do when distraction free?

Next time you find yourself calling your dog 7 times and you're ignored, ask yourself "What is more valuable in this situation/time/space? Me or that the friendly play mate, smelly bush or retreating prey (rabbit, deer)? Is my dog used to doing these things in this space, with all these things around? Have I worked on it?

If you want your dog to be a super obedient pooch everywhere, you MUST practice those desirable behaviours in all the places you wish him to be able to perform them, with varying levels of distraction.

Importance of Socialization

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Thu, 31 Aug 2017 10:34:50 GMT

Growing up

Socializing is one of the most important things to do with any dog. It will help the dog feel more comfortable in many varied situations, with more added elements, without feeling overwhelmed.

Why

A poorly socialized puppy will possibly develop into an adult dog with fear or phobias, anxiety, frustration problems, and/or aggression towards other people, dogs, and other animals.
When we talk about socialization, we don't mean just other puppies and dogs. It is important to socialize your dog with all aspects of our lives, and more.
That's why some dogs have a problem with washing machines, hoovers, people with top hats, umbrellas, cars and bicycles, bearded men, long coats, etc. These puppies have probably never encountered these "things" and will have something to say about it.

A poorly socialized puppy can often be very unhappy and become difficult to live with. Eventually making these issues only possible to overcome, with a lot of training and hard work.

When

The most important time to socialize your puppy is up to 12 weeks of age. At this point, their little brains are like sponges that take in everything, good and bad. Therefore, make sure all intereactions are positive ones, and try to work around certain aspects you might not be able to control - eg. your puppy interacting with a dog that you had perceived as being aggressive.
Try different times of the day as different people are about and different days of the week/weekend.

What

Anything you can think of:

Dogs - as many different breeds as possible, different ages, male and female;
Children - loud high pitch voices and screams, sticky fingers and using this opportunity to educate the child as well;
Clothing - All sorts of clothes you can think of that might be different. Long coats, hats, beannies, caps, sunglasses, high heels, shorts and trousers, wide puffy jackets, etc.;
People - different age groups, ethnicities, beards, moustaches, long and short hair, high pitch and deep voices, etc.;
Objects - umbrellas, plastic bags, bin bags, skateboards, bicycles, street signs, park benches, etc.;
Surfaces - different surfaces, higher off the ground, grassy, rocky, sandy, metallic, wet, etc.;
Other species - cats, guinea pigs, rabbits, horses, cows, etc.;
Equipment - putting on a harness and collar, having the lead on;
Sounds - door bell, someone knocking on the door, hoover, washing machine, dish washer, phone ringing, alarms, etc.
Locations - The lush green park, the sandy beach by the sea, the crowded city market, the local pubs, the car, the vet's waiting room, etc.

Expose your puppy to all of these, and any more you can think of.

How

Just be careful that your puppy is making good associations. Take food with you at all times and feed as interesting things are happening or about to happen. If you feel like your puppy is feeling overwhelmed, do not force him. It's up to him to say when he's had enough.

My dog is older now

If your dog is now older than 12 weeks and is showing signs of being fearful of certain things, there's plenty of work that can be done still. So get in touch with us, and we'll help you out.

Happy training!

Importance of Grooming

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Thu, 03 Aug 2017 10:16:57 GMT

Care & maintenance

Grooming your dog, regardless of what type of coat he has, is an important habit to develop. Besides helping maintain your dog healthy and in good condition, avoiding discomfort and pain, it is an amazing tool that aids in the development of the so important bond between the dog and human.

Brushing your dog's coat for example, helps maintain good blood circulation, more so on long haired dogs than short haired dogs, due to the occurrence of mats and tangles in the coat. It helps release natural oils and get rid of grease. It can even tell you if something is physically wrong with your best friend.
If you see an adult long haired dog that isn't brushed, he will be having clogs of hair that pull and tighten, getting very close to the skin. Besides causing an immeasurable amount of discomfort and pain when moving, it leads to bad blood circulation to all the blood vessels that exist close to the skin in that area. Any build up of grease in the coat can lead to blocked pores in the skin, which can cause sebaceous cysts, and if you probably check the hair between the paw pads, you might find balls of matted fur that become hard with dirt and grease, causing suffering and distress.
A dog that is in constant pain and stress, feeling restraint and aware that certain movements will hurt - such as running - will become easily annoyed and frustrated, leading to lack of patience and a snappy behaviour towards people and other animals, especially the ones he doesn't know.
We all know how people can get just by being a little bit hungry (hangry), so now imagine having a constant pain every time you look up or take a step.

So just looking at brushing, we can already see how regular grooming can lead to a happy and stress free dog, that feels more comfortable in his skin and body.

WARNINGS
If you take your very matted dog to a professional groomer, you will be told off as it is seen as cruelty;
You will be charged a lot more than if you had maintained it at home;
You might even find some groomers that eventually take you off their books and refuse to provide their services due to hassle of dealing with your very difficult dog. A dog that isn't used to be groomed and inspected will be snappy and yappy, desperate to escape, taking much longer to groom, and getting your dog very anxious and upset.

Kidney treats

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 01 Aug 2017 11:16:40 GMT

Dog treat DIY

Some dog treats are exceptionally easy to make, and one example are these dry kidney treats.

You can use beef kidney, which is very cheap to buy at a butchers. After washing the kidney, start by patting it dry with a bit a kitchen towel, and partially freeze it for about 40 min. so it's easier to slice. Cut all the fat out and slice it thin so it breaks up easily later. Afterwards, pop it in the over for about 1 hour at 100°C. Remember we don't want to cook it, we want to dry it out.
Afterwards just let it cool and break it into little bites.

You can have the treats in an airtight container for about 3 days before it goes off, or you can have it in the fridge for it to last longer. Ultimately, if you decide to do a big batch, have it in the freezer and just take out what you need.

Happy training!

Dog friendly gardens

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 01 Aug 2017 10:50:40 GMT

Responsibility and Care

When one has a dog, one loves a back garden. Many people move to a house with a big garden, with the intent of getting a pet dog and that is to be applauded. Dogs need space to run around, and most dogs still have a bit of energy left after that long walk at the park. So having a back garden can provide and extra play time in your well known environment, and put an smile on your face, as your dog zooms around - up & down, over & under, right & left - to then fall asleep.

However, not all gardens are pet friendly, so we need to make sure that ours is one.

#1 Escape proof

Most dogs like to roam, and given the opportunity, they might just take off to smell the corners of the world. Huskies are a good example of a dog that likes to roam. A Husky is probably able to escape most simple fences to go for a walk, but with such a poor sense of direction, he might not be able to come back.
Other problems might occur such as your dog going after the neighbour's cat, causing damage to someone's property, hurting someone/something, or hurting himself. Not to mention dog-napping (which is not a dog having a nap).
To have an escape proof garden, have a good fence/wall, bushes along side it - #4 - so he can't get to the wall easily, and for some dogs, a barrier underneath the fence or wall to prevent the doggy version of the Shawshank Redemption.

#2 Paw friendly pavements

Some types of material for some pavements may cause harm or discomfort for your dog. In the summer, some materials can get really hot and burn your pooches pads, which is extremely painful. So a dog friendly material is needed.
Providing a lot of grass space is ideal, because it will be gentle on your dogs paws and nails, and won't overheat too much in the hot sun. Shingle and Woodchip can be good options but can represent other problems such as your dog starting to make snacks of them. You may also consider fake grass, but make sure it is a pet friendly one and that this includes heat retention. Patio wise, consider sandstone, flagstone, concrete and brick, which seem to be OK in the UK. Always remember that almost every stone based pavement can have a high ability to retain heat, so if you are redoing your garden, make sure you install the right type of pavement.

#3 Water sources

Running around in the garden may result in thirst, so having a little pond or fountain is always nice as well. This water source bullet point can be as simple as having a hose in the garden. This way you can just get the hose and shower/mist the ground to make it cooler or simply to remove a bit of that doggy smell on a hot day.
However, if you do have any water features in your garden, make sure they are safe and that if they're big enough for a pet or child to fall into it, that they can easily get out.

#4 Greenery

I love gardening and plants and green. But not all green is good for dogs. Some plants can harm, injure and even cause death.
Plants like Daffodils, Wysteria, Hydrangea, Fox Glove, Azaleas, Lillies, Tulips, Daphne and Yew, can cause serious malfunction in your dogs system. So when in doubt, look it up to be safe.
If you also like your garden looking nice but you have a big dog, make sure you plant accordingly. Avoid having delicate or young plants where a dog can reach, as these can easily get ran over or dug up. Invest in more robust plants such as large perennials, and sturdy shrubs that can withstand a zooming dog. Lavender makes a good border that is sturdy and dog safe.
To keep our dog from getting out, plant climbing plants and vines next to your fence, which will also look beautiful as they cling and climb. Have several plants with thorns near the easiest access points of escape, as your dog will keep away from these. The rose bush is a good example.

#5 Poop area

One of the things one doesn't want, is poo showing up all over the place. Get your dog a specific soiling area and try to wash any residue away after picking it up. It's not safe to compost dog faeces since it contains dangerous parasites that won't die in a simple compost system.

#6 Resting area

Try to provide your dog with a safe and shaded resting area so your dog can take himself there to relax and escape for the hot sun. If you happen to have big trees that provide a good amount of shade, perfect. If not, try leaving a tent or parasol for your dog. If you have the space however, you can easily get a dog house or build one yourself.

#7 Keep snails and slugs out

Snails and slugs carry lungworm, which is extremely dangerous to dogs. But our pets don't know this and can sometimes try to eat them. There are many methods out there to keep these slimy animals out.
Avoid using non-organic slug pellets as these are toxic to dogs and cats, plus all the other animals that might visit your garden.

Drop it

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Fri, 30 Jun 2017 16:55:45 GMT

Commands

The command drop it, is one that will save you a ton of hassle. Dogs pick up all sorts of things off the floor and it's essential to have a good cue for letting go.
Another reason to teach it, is so that you can play fetch or tug, without having a five minute break after every trow because they are so reluctant to give it up.

To teach drop it, you need to get your dog to pick something up first. If your dog likes to tug, play tug for a little bit before you ask for the command. Keep you dog on a lead and close to you so he can't run off with it and leave you stranded. Once you want your dog to drop the item, say drop it and stop pulling the toy towards you. If you keep pulling, you're still playing, and the idea is to make it as boring as possible.
You can also gently grab your dogs collar, as soon as you provide the cue, and bring the collar up a little bit. That way you can make it obvious that your're not pulling anymore and also make it just slightly uncomfortable.

Do not make eye contact! No one is trying to dominate their dogs into releasing the item. The situation will be very boring for your dog after a few seconds and he will drop it.

As soon as your dog drops it, say yes with enthusiasm, release his collar and start tugging again. By rewarding the release with more play, he will learn after a few repetitions that releasing actually makes him have more fun.

Tips!
#1 - Let your dog win every now and again. Would you want to play a game with someone if you know you'll lose? No, you wouldn't...
#2 - The toy only goes away 1 in 5 plays. That way you won't have the reaction "I don't want to give it to you because you're going to take it away".
#3 - If your dog likes to play tug with clothes, get them to drop the clothes and reward with food. Then try to play with tug or ball instead.

Any doubts, let us know!

Types of toys

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Fri, 30 Jun 2017 16:35:36 GMT

Learning more

When one goes to a Pet Shop to get a toy for our dog, we are faced with a ridiculous amount of toys to pick from. They come in all shapes and sizes. Some destructible, some indestructible. However, most people end up buying a ton of different toys, without realising how and what their main uses are.
I've met a ton of people that have a dog that happens to have a huge tugging drive, but doesn't show any interest to the ones at home. Or a dog that loves to absolutely kill , de-fluff and de-squeak stuffed toys. But what's the point of it all? Let's get in to it.

There are four different types of toys you can buy for your dog!

#1 Interactive toys
For me, these are the best toys because you can have fun with your dog, train them, and get them tired, all in one!
This group of toys consist of all your frisbees, balls and tugs. Your dog should be really happy about these toys, so we must set ourselves some rules.

Rule number 1
Leave these toys safe and away when they are not being used. They only come out when YOU are going to play with your dog. Once the play session is over, the toy is put away.
If you always leave these toys out, you will ruin the toys' value. By always being present, they don't value it, as it's taken for granted.
Rule number 2
Teach your dog to drop it . Some people are afraid of playing tug of war as it "makes dogs aggressive", but that is an old theory that has long been debunked. Simply make sure that you are not confronting your dog and reward for tugging.

#2 Chew toys
These are the kind of toys that are always left about. I mean deer antlers, nylabones, kong chew toys and other toys whose purpose is solely to be chewed.
Chewing will keep your dog busy if they are home alone for longer periods, it keeps your furniture safe, and mentally stimulates your dog's brain.
These toys can also help your dog calm himself/herself down, and can help with a large range of behaviour issues, when used alongside training and behaviour modification.

#3 Dental toys
These toys can also be left about, but they tend to have a purpose, which is to help clean your dog's teeth. Most of these toys have some rubbery teeth to help clean around the mouth, or grooves such as Kong's dental stick, in which to get treats or paste stuck in.

#4 Stuffed toys
These toys are NOT to be destroyed, de-fluff and de-squeaked. If you allow your dog to do these things to the toy, they will aim for your laundry, your mail and other possessions next. Especially if they squeak. Some dogs get overly excited over a squeaky noise and will aim for other things that also squeak, such us your child's pet rabbit or your baby niece Linda.
Stuffed toys are to be cared for and bring your dog to a calm. They should survive the extent of your pets life and no, they can't be just left about.
For example, my dog has a chicken toy. The chicken only comes out when it's settling down time. If trained, your dog will also associate the stuffed toy as a calming toy, so don't waste the amazing opportunity that is right in front of you.

Overall
Toys are fantastic when used according to their purpose, so please have a look at your dog's toy box/drawer/cupboard. Any toys that are getting too damaged must be replaced. Any doubts, give us a shout!

Dog friendly beaches in Norfolk

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 30 May 2017 12:17:15 GMT

Out and about

There is one thing I love doing in the Summer and that's going to the beach... with the dogs. Nice swims and fun play times, ending with a nice walk along the coastline.

Norfolk has some amazing dog friendly beaches and you've probably heard of some of them.

We are going to give you a guide for the beaches in Norfolk with no restrictions only.

Snettisham
Heacham South & North
Old Hunstanton
Holme-next-the-Sea
Thornham
Burnham Overy Staithe
Holkham
Wells-next-the-Sea - Only to the west of the beach. No dogs allowed near beach huts.
Waxham
Horsey
Winterton-on-Sea
Scratby
Caister-on-Sea
Great Yarmouth North & South (not central)

This list includes beaches from the West and the North, to the East of Norfolk. Remember to always take poo bags and fresh water for your dog. No one wants their dogs to suffer from Heatstroke!

Happy beaching!

Beach ready

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 30 May 2017 12:00:32 GMT

Out and about

Taking your dog to the beach is one of the most fun experiences to have with your pooch. They can go in the sea, play with other dogs or with you, but most importantly, beaches provide a ton of training opportunities.
However, you do need to be prepared.

Things to look out for

It's tougher to run on sand than on grass, and not just for us. So don't ask your dog to do too much,
Make sure your dog has ID and is micro-chipped just in case they get lost,
Not all dogs can swim. Corgis, Frenchies, Pugs and Dachshunds have difficulty swimming and will struggle,
Make sure you have plenty of fresh water for your dog,
Don't forget poo bags, it's a really bad idea,
For those dogs with very short coat or white skin, get a doggy sunscreen, and
Afterwards, don't forget to check your dog's paws for cuts. Some beaches have a lot of stones with sharp edges.

Heatstroke
A dog that is too hot will not be able to cool their body temperature by panting, which can result in excessive panting, drooling, lack of coordination, lethargy, vomiting and collapsing. If the situation is not resolved and the dog ins't helped, heatstroke will cause death.
If you feel your dog is feeling heatstroke, remove him to a shaded area, give him plenty of fresh water and place a wet towel over their shoulders. Call your vet for advice. You can find some very nice cooling doggy beds with cooling gel at Jollyes in Norwich.
Dogs susceptible to heatstroke are the very young or very old dogs, very heavy coated breeds and the dogs with very flat faces such as Bulldogs, Frenchies and Pugs.

So take care and enjoy the summer!

Peanut Butter

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 30 May 2017 09:06:06 GMT

Nutrition

Although peanut butter is one of our favorite treats for dogs, there has been a rise in awareness towards this product in the market when being fed to our lovely canines. Peanut butter is used in Kongs and in doggy baked goods, it's used to give medication and much more.

Xylitol
The whole fuss is due to a little chemical called Xylitol , which is a sugar substitute used in many products that we consume. Xylitol is a sugar alcohol, and naturally found in berries, plums, corn, oats, mushrooms, lettuce, trees, and some other fruits.
Although it's completely safe for humans, it's extremely toxic for dogs and can cause hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), seizures, liver failure or even death.

But how much Xylitol is too much?
50 milligrams (mg) of xylitol per pound of body weight (100 mg per kg) has been reported to cause Hypoglycemia. The higher the dose, the higher the risk of liver failure, and past that point, the higher risk of seizures and death.

What about palm oil?
Palm oil is used for some peanut butter brands (usually the cheaper ones) to substitute the more expensive peanut oil. In large quantities, palm oil can lead to stomach upsets and diarrhoea, due to the high level of saturated vegetable fats contained in it, making it too rich and fatty. So both high in calories and possibly, too rich for the digestive system of some dogs.

Which peanut butters are safe?
The big deal with peanut butter now, is that some brands have been adding Xylitol to their recipes in order to substitute sugar and make it cheaper to produce and sell. However, there are some brands that don't include this chemical in their recipes and those are the ones we can feed our dogs.
This is a list of some of the brands we are sure don't currently contain Xylitol , making them safe for dogs.

Sun-Pat
Peamutt Butter
Meridian
Whole Earth
Skippy

Thank you for reading!

Exercises explained

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 04 Apr 2017 11:28:29 GMT

To all, new and old

After many requests for spreadsheet for the classes, we have decided to provide you with access to all the information, via a membership system on another website called Canine Experts . This membership provides you with limited (8 weeks) free access to all the exercises for your specific course.
We will not take any card details as this is just a complement to the classes.

So let's say you've just started your Little Rascals Puppy Course, to access the content, all you have to do is go on the website and create a free account. Afterwards, you can view all the Puppy Course material available under the content tab.

After the 8 weeks free access, your account will simply be deleted and you won't be charged anything.
Exercises will be explained in written posts with (eventually) video.

So go now on Canine Experts !
If you have any doubts, contact us.

Abbotts Wood

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 04 Apr 2017 11:10:48 GMT

Happy Pets Training Centre

Our training centre hasn't been built yet, but we have started using the space for outdoor classes, mainly Agility, Recall and Aggression Rehabilitation Sessions.
This is very exciting as we can now offer a wider range of services, in a better environment. In this large area, we can even have different courses running at the same time, and not disturb each other.

Developments are taking place quickly now, so we will keep posting news in regards to the Centre on the website and Facebook page.

You can find the directions on our Contact Page. Please make sure you have booked before showing up as you might interrupt a class or not find anyone there.

Due to Council Regulations, we must keep barking to a minimum. You will be given a Barking Avoidance Sheet upon signing up, which will help you, in time, deal with your dog's barking issue.

Loose Lead Walking

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 21 Mar 2017 14:55:58 GMT

Exercise Explained

Everyone likes to walk their dogs and keep their limbs. But some dogs are difficult to walk as they pull and pull and pull. Meanwhile, you just keep finding yourself being drtagged down the road, becoming more and more frustrated and angry.

But to start with, we need to ask ourselves why dogs pull! And why do they pull? The reason is very simple. They are simply too excited about the world and it's smells. More than they are excited about us. And because their walking speed is much faster than ours, they force us to adapt.

It is important to understand, however, that getting angry and having your dog's lead tight won't solve your problems. In fact, it will only make you get even more angry because they keep pulling.

There are many techniques and bits of equipment out there for this very common issue. But it is up to you to find out what works best.

Equipment can vary from different leads (Training lead, slip lead, etc) and harnesses (Norwegian, German, English, etc) to head collars (Canine Bridle, Gentle Leader, Halti).
Techniques can vary from using a barrier to block, using your body to block, using a long lead to mimic being off the lead, and a combination of everything given your environment.

The techniques we usually teach in class are the barrier training, the blocking technique and the stop/step on the long lead.
The barrier training consists of using the environment to prevent your dog from getting ahead of you and therefore staying behind you walking nicely. This requires you to walk fast and be quick to prevent any attempt to pull.
The blocking technique consists of having the dogs lead running behind your back. So that every time your dog attempts to pull, you can just bring your leg out to the side and stop them.
The stop/step on the long lead consists of stepping on a long lead that drags on the ground behind. So that everytime the dog attempts to pull, you can stop him/her.
These techniques and more, are applied in our Recall & loose Lead Walking Course.

The whole trick about loose lead walking is to find out what can work - if you insist on it - and be consistent. Make sure that whoever walks your dog, does exactly the same thing you do. Try not to give into your dogs pulling habits because it's sunny or you're having a great day. Work on it.
If by any chance you are in a rush to go to work, use a head collar so your dog can't pull even if he/she wants to.
Put in the work now and you'll have a dog that walks nicely for the next 10 - 15 years, or don't put in the work and you'll have frustrating walks for the next 10 - 15 years.

Alternatively, we can train your dog for you .
So contact us so we can help you.

Agility

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 21 Mar 2017 14:06:16 GMT

Dog Sports

As seen in many dog events throughout the year, including Crufts, this amazing sport has the biggest legion of fans in the canine world.

In this impressive activity, the handler must guide the dog off lead through a sea of obstacles without touching either the dog or the obstacles. This is done with no incentives throughout, and very often the path is not as obvious as one might think. Full of twists, turns, changes of direction, and making sure everything is done in the right order with no faults, is pretty amazing, and certainly not easy. Besides all this, it must all be achieved solely by human direction, either using visual or voice commands.

Given the amount of work, a good level of obedience from the dog is mandatory, as well as good timing, precision, and good physical ability from both dog and human. The dog will also read the onwers' body language, as that can tell which way to go, so having a good handling technique is mandatory. Of course the animal's experience plays a big part, but that is something that comes with time, and soon becomes second nature. Just like fetch.

And that is why good foundation training is important before you start.

Most dogs aren't allowed to start actual agility training until they are at least one year old - with larger breeds waiting up to a year and a half -. But regardless of this fact, there is still plenty to do to get the ball rolling. You can work on waiting exercises, patience, targeting, attention onto you, get your dog used to some equipment and learn basic running skills such as front crosses, rear crosses, serpentines, and much more.

Be ready, so that before you start real agility training, with full on circuits, you just have to put everything together.

When you start doing circuits, you can take a look at the course plan, and you are allowed to walk it with your dog once it's laid out. That way you can have an idea of where to go and how to go about it. All the obstacles are numbered so you know the order in which to take it on, and in what direction (jumping towards you instead of away from you).

The obstacles consist of:

Jumps;

Single jumps;
Double jumps / triple jumps;
Broad / long jumps
Tire / hoop;
Panel jumps;

Tunnels;

Straight Tunnel;
Flat Tunnel

Weave poles
Pause box / table
Contact Equip.

A-frame;
Dog walk &
Seesaw.

So if you are interested in trying out agility, contact us !

Paw

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 07 Mar 2017 11:18:26 GMT

Little Big Trick

Getting your dog to do this party trick is actually really easy, once you get the idea behind it. As long as you can teach the paw command, you can easily change it over to something a tad more interesting, such as a High 5, a Fist Bump or a High 10!

To start, get your dog to sit in front of you. Then hold a treat in front of your dog’s chest -nearer the collar -; let him/her nibble your hand, chew your fingers, lick them, etc. But you will not reward until the dog decides to try and paw your hand. Dogs are smart animals, so if something doesn't work, they'll try something else.

The trick here is to make sure that you're not holding the treat too high or too low. If you're holding the treat too high, it's not inviting for the paw to come up. And if you're holding the treat too low, the dog will possibly lie down, which at this point can be counter productive.

Once the dog figures out that pawing your hand makes the treat magically go into his/her mouth, the dog will start doing it more often.

After a while repeating the exercise, we can start shaping it a little bit. If you want the left paw, hold the treat nearer the left leg, and if you want the right paw, hold the treat nearer the right leg. You can perform it on a sit up or a stand. Get them to hold it in the air for longer periods of time without touching your hand, or get them to cover their faces in shame, and so forth.

Just use your imagination, and you can use a simple trick to teach new and more complex tricks, that will wow!

Origin of Clicker Training

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 14 Feb 2017 12:31:45 GMT

Pavlov's Accident

Like many great scientific advances, Pavlov’s classical conditioning was discovered accidentally.

Pavlov showed the existence of the unconditioned response by presenting a dog with a bowl of food and the measuring it's salivary secretions.

However, when Pavlov discovered that any object or event which the dogs learnt to associate with food would trigger the same response, he realised that he had made an important scientific discovery. Such was the lab assistant that would feed the dogs.

Somehow the dogs in his lab had learned to associate his lab assistant with food. And he rightfully thought that must have been learned, because at one point the dogs didn’t associate the lab assistant with food, and there came a point where they started demonstrating that association, so their behaviour had changed. A change in behaviour of this type can only be the result of learning, so the experiment began.

In behaviourist terms, the lab assistant was originally a neutral stimulus. It is called neutral because it produces no response. What had happened was that the neutral stimulus (the lab assistant) had become associated with an unconditioned stimulus (food). This turned the lab assistant into a Secondary Reinforcer. Which means that over time, he dogs learned that Lab Assistant = Food.

So in his experiment, Pavlov used a bell as his neutral stimulus. Whenever he gave food to his dogs, he also rang a bell.

After a number of repeats of this procedure, he tried the bell on its own. As you might expect, the bell on its own now caused an increase in salivation.

Leave

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 14 Feb 2017 12:12:54 GMT

Exercise Explained

It’s Very important for our dogs to know to leave things alone when we tell them to.

The reason for this is their safety more than anything. Just because something is in reach, it doesn't mean they can have it. For the target may be be:

Something dangerous if ingested such as a sharp object, poisonous food;
Something gross and very inappropriate such as fox / cow / sheep faeces or dead animals ;

A developing obsessive compulsive behaviour such as picking up stones and sticks,
Preventing them to meet and greet the wrong people people or dogs ;
Chasing cyclists, cats, etc;

But this exercise needs to be very well executed for our pets to succeed, and don’t get them confused with different commands.

It's important to understand that there is a big difference between the Leave and Wait commands.

With Wait they get the target – say Wait, put food on the floor and let the dog have have it when you get eye contact, or when you’re happy with the time he has been patient for (always maintaining eye contact)–; while with Leave , they don't get the target – say Leave, put food on the floor and treat from your hand when you get eye contact, or when you’re happy with the time he has been patient for (always maintaining eye contact)–.

It’s very important that during the Leave exercise, the dog never gets the target on the floor. Maybe while you’re training, think of the food as a knife you don’t want your dog to start playing with, and keep that in mind so you don’t let him get to it.

Tips to succeed are:

Keep a good safe distance between the dog and the target food,
Keep the lead short but loose (just in case they decide to lunge)
Have two types of food, one being low value and one being high value. The low value will go on the floor to target, while the high value is the treat that comes from you.

After the dog starts avoiding the food to stay with you – looking at you –, you want to bring the dog to a heel to make him/her walk away from the target food.

Overtime Leave becomes a successful recall as it is taught in very short steps, maintaining a high level of success every time.

Clicker Training

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 31 Jan 2017 13:17:57 GMT

The use of the Clicker/Marking Word

The Clicker or Marking Word is a very useful technique to use when training your dog new behaviours.
This way you can let your dog know that he/she has performed the desirable behaviour and treat for it.
The way a marking signal works, is that once the animal knows what a specific sound means, they will start repeating that action to hear that sound again and get the reward that follows. That signal you make will tell your dog that food/a toy/fuss is coming.

So looking at it this way, we can say that in Clicker Training, there are two Reinforcers, the Primary Reinforcer and the Secondary Reinforcer. The Primary Reinforcer is something that the dog wants, such as having a treat, playing with a toy or just having fuss; the Secondary Reinforcer is the signal that tells the dog that the Primary Reinforcer is coming. This way we can say that the Clicker is a Secondary Reinforcer and the treat/toy/fuss is the Primary Reinforcer.

So giving a practical example, if I ask a dog - that has been taught this system - to sit, and I signal the exact moment his/her bum lands on the floor, he/she will start sitting in a much more responsive way, in just a few repetitions.

But how do I teach it?
The best way to teach your dog a signal is by conditioning it to him/her. This means that we will simply repeat the same action until the dog learns it. Like teaching ourselves the lyrics to a song, with practice, we know what's coming up after every verse.
This conditioning consists only of signaling (with clicker or marking word) and providing the much wanted reward, without asking for anything at all. Just signal and reward. However, this has to be done in the correct order and in the right timing.
Dogs associate these kind of things if they happen within a very short amount of time from the other - within a second.
So the order goes by Action-Signal-Treat .
This will not work if you signal after, or as you're rewarding the behaviour, as there was no Secondary Reinforcer previous to the Primary Reinforcer and you didn't mark the behaviour as this system is intended to.

So much sure that when using this system, you're using it correctly.

How to manage a clicker?
When you use a clicker, you have a mechanical object in your hand. But try not to worry about it and focus on getting used to it. Usually you will be fine holding it on the same hand as the lead.
Try not to point the clicker at the dog as a loud noise near their ears can cause harm to the ear drums. The device is not a remote control and the animal can hear it perfectly well, even if you hold it behind your back. So if you keep your hands close to your body, you're doing well.

Tips

This system is perfect to teach new behaviour. However, after a behaviour has been taught, you must try and increase the amount of time between the action and the signal. Only this way you'll be able to get a very energetic dog to sit for longer and longer periods of time to give you an example.
This system also "signs a contract" with the dog. If after signaling, you don't reward, your carefully conditioned house of cards will come crumbling down as the dog will now know that the system is broken and is not trustworthy.
If you choose to use a marking word as opposed to the clicker (mechanical device), use a very short word and try to be as consistent as possible when saying it. The best word you can use is "Yes". The use of a word however, will not teach as fast as when using the clicker.

Nails

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 31 Jan 2017 12:24:24 GMT

How to cut your dogs nails?

Dogs nails have an enormous role in providing a comfortable walk for your dog.
When dogs’ nails aren’t cut back, they will curl up, causing them to eventually cut in the foot pad; or curl to the side, making it very uncomfortable to move around. Overgrown nails often cause injury and can even harm the structure of your dogs foot if left long term.

The other problem of leaving your dog's nails to grow for too long, is the fact that the quick - blood vessel in the nail - grows with the nail. This will cause unnecessary pain when cutting them to a normal size, and this kind of bleeding takes a while to stop, which leads to a bloody mess. If the nails are cut regularly, the quick will recede with the nail, making your life easier.

How can I tell if they need cutting?
If you have a dog with short coat, you can look at your dog's nails when the dog is standing, in a stationary position. If his/her nails touch the floor, they need to be cut back;
If you have a dog with a long coat and the above method doesn't work, all you have to do is grab one of your dogs paws and place your thumb on your dogs toe pads - one toe at a time -. if you can feel the nail touch your finger, they need to be cut back. This must be doe with your thumb and the dogs' toe pointing the same direction.

How to cut them?
Using nails clippers, you can cut your dogs nails yourself, but you must be careful when doing so.
Make sure you are cutting the nails at a slight angle compared the the pad, as illustrated above; If you are not sure, trim only the very tip, until you get used to it; before you cut, always squeeze the clippers twice without cutting; If you are too close to the quick, or about to cut it, the dog will let you know as the squeeze alone is painful.
If you hit the quick, you must stop the bleeding. The use of a coagulant powder such as Quick Quick, will be your best friend.

Where can i get them done?
Most people don't want to cut their dogs nails, or they don't feel comfortable in doing so, and that's fair enough. But if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself, or you find it too distressing, take your dog to the Vet, or to the Groomers.
By going to the Groomers regularly, your dog will be very well maintained. Dog Grooming meets all of your dogs basic physical needs, as well as making your dog more socially acceptable as it will make your animal will smell better and look better. But this is about your animals comfort and decreasing the chance of nail injury by breaking or catching a nail.

Baby it's cold outside...

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:27:51 GMT

Walking your dog on icy or snowy conditions

Regardless of the weather, our dogs still need to go out.

But then there are dog breeds and dog breeds! in the case of snow, If you have a husky you will be pulled or pushed out of the house to go out on a walk, but if you have a Chihuahua, a whippet or a Greyhound, they will avoid getting out of the house, even for a breath of fresh air.

The decision to not walk your dog, though, comes with several consequences. An animal has to be mentally and physically stimulated, and being locked at home will not fulfill those requirements.

Without an outlet for their energy, they will become destructive and anxious, amongst other things, so dog owners need to find a way to make outside walks as pleasant as possible.

Luckily nowadays there’s an array of equipment we can use to make our lives easier.

When it comes to us, we all know what we have to wear. Warm socks and winter boots, jumpers and coats, scarves and hats, never forgetting gloves. But when it comes to the pooches, we might need to get them all cuddled up for the cold as well.
Some dogs with a short coat will shiver even just being at home in this weather, so when it’s time to get them out we can get them ready for it.

Dog coats
Dog coats will keep your dog warm throughout, and to be honest, they don’t usually mind it.
It’s even a good idea to get a reflective one, especially at this time of the year in which the sun goes away early in the afternoon.

Dog boots

Dogs that were bred for snowy and icy conditions have their paw pads properly protected against the snow and ice, but dogs that don’t, can get frostbite or even cuts due to the icy ground. So it's normal for your dog not wanting to go into the icy path and there are not many dogs that behave this way. The option is to provide dog shoes or boots that can help prevent these problems. The difficulty with boots is that, as opposed to coats, dogs don't usually like them, and will walk in an awkward fashion.

So if you have a short coated breed, make a quick search to see what you can find. This will help both you and your dog enjoy a good winter walk.

Why do dogs bark?

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Thu, 19 Jan 2017 11:52:54 GMT

Learn why your dog is barking and how to stop it!

Barking is a language like many others. It is used to show all sorts of emotions and it helps us know how our dogs are feeling.
The problem with barking is that society doesn't like it. Friends, family and neighbours see it as a nuisance, and the probability that you do too, is also very high.

But how can you tell apart the different types of barking?
What is your dog trying to tell you?

There are several types of barking, the most commonly identified ones, being for Excitement, Frustration, Attention and Guarding. Different types of barking request different approaches and ignoring is not always the answer, so let's take a look at them.

Excitement Barking
"OMG you are home!" is what people usually see it as. And that's usually what it is. In the outdoors, "OMG I'm outside!". This bark is usually high pitch, it sounds very happy and can be quite incessant. But stopping this barking is very simple as you just need to calm your dog down. By using the Steady exercise learned in class, you are reinforcing calmness, and that is the best remedy. Another tip is to ask your dog to do something opposite to barking and being excited, such as a lie down. Remember to treat to encourage good behaviour and keep calm, so that they are calm...

Frustration Barking
If a dog gets bored or you're taking too long to throw the ball (example), your dog might start barking as to say "get on with it already". It is usually a couple of very high pitch barks that pierce your ears, but this bark must be ignored completely. If you're playing ball with your dog and he or she starts barking, cease action completely and ignore them until they stop and count till 3. If dog managed to remain quiet for 3 seconds, keep playing. As your dog learns that barking doesn't work, start asking for slightly longer periods of inactivity - up to 20 seconds in increments.
Frustration barking can also be seen in:

Playing retrieve - when ball or tug toy is taking too long to be thrown.
Playing chase - frustration induced by not being able to catch the target.
Waiting for food - he sees you prepare the food and is eager to have it.

But not all Frustration barking cases are to be approached in the same way. A dog that barks because he/she is kept outside for example, will need a different approach altogether, and for that we can definitely help.

Attention Barking
Attention barking is that incessant barking directed at you, or another animal whey want to interact with. It is projected along side a waggy tail, maybe a couple growls or a play bow. Or he may be jumping up and down, and all he wants to do is play.
The treatment here is ignoring him as explained above and rewarding for longer periods of time. By giving them the exact opposite from what the dog wants/expects, you are making the barking behaviour go extinct, as it results in no activity from you whatsoever. Even looking at your dog will encourage the behaviour, so just ignore him. Remember, if a behaviour has no legs to stand on, it dies over time.

Guard Barking
You can easily identify a guard barking at home. When after hearing or seeing something , your dog starts to bark. This bark usually starts in a quite tame way. There is usually one bark, followed by one pause, followed by one bark, followed by one pause, etc. This bark is quite "serious" and in a low pitch. The dog is trying to tell you that there is something there, that he isn't sure about it or is nervous about it. This is usually sided with growling.
This bark shouldn't be ignored, as it will only cause your dog to start barking more in a "you're not listening to me" kind of way - three barks and one pause in between, five barks and one pause in between, and so on.
After hearing this bark, you should go and check out the area your dog is barking at. Even if it is a blank wall, you're checking it out, letting him know that you paying attention and dealing with the situation. Be sure when doing this that you are between the "target" and your dog, not allowing your dog to get ahead of you. After checking out the "danger", return to your dog and provide reassurance.
If the barking has become very incessant, however, you may need professional help from a Behaviourist.

But don't ever forget... consistency is key.

Happy training!

Forbidden Foods

0010332094 (A SZKUKALEK) — Tue, 17 Jan 2017 12:56:52 GMT

What foods are dangerous for our dogs?

After a lot of festivities, there are always most certainly leftovers. And while some might just throw them in the bin, others might give them to their dogs.

It’s is OK, although not recommended, to give leftovers to animals, as long as we know what they can and cannot eat.

It is important to remember that we are different species, with different digestive tracts, different nutritional requirement and different limitations.

Below is a list of ingredients that can cause (serious) harm to your pets.

If any of the foods listed below are ingested by your animal, it is advisable that you take your pet to the Vet. Especially if ingested in large quantities. Don't wait until your pet is showing symptoms, because by then, it might be too late.

Alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.

Chocolate contains a stimulant called theobromine that can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, restlessness, hyperactivity and seizures.

Caffeine , in a couple of laps of tea or coffee will not do any harm, but the ingestion of moderate amounts of coffee grounds or tea bags can lead to serious problems. Symptoms are similar to chocolate toxicity and the treatment is very similar.

Avocados contain a substance called Persin that is found in the leaves, fruit, seeds and bark. This substance can cause vomiting and diarrhoea. Coma and even death in rabbits, cats, dogs and horses.

Garlic, onion and chives can cause gastrointestinal (stomach and gut) irritation and could lead to red blood cell damage.

Sugar can lead to obesity, dental problems and even diabetes.

Grapes and raisins can cause rapid kidney failure. The substance causing it is unknown.

Yeast dough and it’s ingestion can cause gas to accumulate in your dog's digestive system as a result of the dough rising. Not only can this be painful but if may also cause the stomach or intestines to become obstructed (blocked) or distended.

Xylitol which is found in many foods such as sugar free gum, diabetic cakes, diet foods etc. causes insulin release in many species leading to potentially fatal hypoglycaemia.